From: SFPhysics@aol.com
Date: Wed Nov 10 2004 - 02:48:50 PST
From: SFPhysics@aol.com Message-ID: <f7.43fd5468.2ec34c12@aol.com> Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2004 05:48:50 EST Subject: Tesla Coil problem...
<<
Does anyone have a suggestion for "waking up" a Tesla coil that just
stopped working? It has no on/off switch. There are no visible shorts in
the cord. There is just one adjustment screw on the end, and turning it is
not doing anything. If I were to open it up, are there any
repairs/tune-ups that are possible? With appreciation for any assistance
that you can provide... Barbara
>>
Greetings Barbara:
If you are talking about one of those hand wand high voltage sources, it is
most likely an Odin induction coil. The Odin coil uses a primary with a
capacitor and breaker contacts on a vibrating armature much as the old Ford coils
for Model T Ford cars. If the contacts have been damaged, the capacitor shorts,
or the primary coil opens, you will have no operation. These units may be
serviced by someone with some knowledge. After checking the line cord for
continuity I always replace the old capacitors (which were generally beeswax,
aluminum foil, and paper) since they short easily and dry out with age so that they
do not function. The contacts are often tungsten silver and these can burn
so that no contact is possible. Finding new contact material is a problem. An
open coil means that you would have to disassemble the transformer part of
the unit and this is something not for an amateur repair person.
Determine if you have any continuity as a first step by connecting an
Ohmmeter across the line cord then screwing in the contact all the way it will go or
until you get a reading. If there is no reading then you start disassembly to
get to the other ends of the line cord to check its continuity. That would
expose the leads to the coil where you could test the primary for continuity. A
visual check of the contacts should be made and connecting the Ohmmeter
across the contacts while moving them with the adjustment screw will let you know
if they are making a complete circuit. Sometimes the contact has been screwing
down so far as to move the armature out of its correct position. If that is
the case you will have to bend the spring arm holding the armature back into
place. The capacitor should be unsoldered and tested but is better to just
replace it with a new mylar unit. The primary should be checked for continuity
as well as the secondary. Unfortunately the science supply houses would rather
sell you a new $125 unit than a $5 part so I have not personally ever seen a
repair service for old equipment.
Let me know what you find?
Regards to all on the list,
Al Sefl
Who always found working with electricity to be a hair raising experience...
But more and more his head is getting as smooth as a Van de Graaff collecting
sphere so there isn't much left to raise...
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